Published on May 16, 2020
Once you get better at thrifting and start finding good stuff, you will realize that you can’t buy everything that grabs your attention at the thrift store. When I first began thrifting, I would buy a ton of stuff. Anything designer, anything that I could see myself maybe wearing once for a wedding that might or might not be coming up. A pair of jeans just because they were by Mother and hey, maybe one day I will be size 24. A high-end dress that was the ugliest thing I had ever seen, but it retailed for $800 and maybe I could resell it (I eventually did – for less than $30). I’d buy flawed items with the intention to repair them (happened very rarely). I would leave huge bags of clothing in the car and sneak them into our house when my husband was sleeping. And I would have a 5-feet high pile of inventory that I hadn’t photographed let alone listed – something that resellers endearingly call a ‘death pile.’
At some point, I realized that what I was doing was not very sustainable. It was draining me emotionally and economically. That’s when I started to become pickier. I developed a list that helped me decide what to buy when thrifting, and I would only buy an item if it checked all of the boxes (or at least most of them). Here are my buying criteria; I hope you find them helpful.
Try everything on
To decide what to buy when thrifting, my rule number one is to try everything on. As you’ll see, this helps with all the other points on my list, too. Trying an item on will obviously help you determine whether it fits, but you’re also more likely to spot small flaws that might otherwise go unnoticed. There have been countless times when I have found something great and tried it on, only to realize that there’s e.g., a small hole.
Trying items on also allows you to find gems that you may have initially overlooked. Some clothes just don’t look that great on a hanger. When you try them on, they magically turn into something completely different. My all-time favorite long-sleeved t-shirt is a basic, green James Perse tee. I almost passed on it, because when I saw it on the rack, it was nothing special. Yet, when I tried it on, it was the perfect fit.
The James Perse tee was also larger than my usual size. This was another reason why I almost left it on the rack. Yet, when I tried it on, I really liked the slightly more relaxed fit. As you know, sizing varies greatly depending on the designer, and sometimes even within a brand. In my closet, I have clothing in all sizes from XS to L. Thus, nowadays I rarely look at the size tag anymore. Trying an item on gives a much better idea of whether it fits than the tag does.
Does the item fit?
That said, it goes without saying that the item has to fit for me to buy it. I have bought way too many pieces that might fit when I gain/lose a little bit of weight. Nowadays, I stay firm and leave those behind. The chances are that if the item doesn’t fit now, it won’t fit in the future, either (although considering the amount of baking I’ve been doing during the current lockdown, I wish I had bought a few of those pieces that were too large at the time…) Thus, no matter how fabulous an item is, if it’s not the right size, I don’t buy it. Obviously, if you resell, this doesn’t matter, as buyers come in all sizes.
Even if the size is right, this doesn’t automatically mean that the fit is, too. I have noticed that, e.g., midi dresses don’t work for my body type, no matter how correct the size is. I still occasionally try them on at thrift stores, as I really like the way they look on other people. But as I try them on, I quickly remember why I’m not buying them.
Similarly, last time I went thrifting, I found a gorgeous IRO sweater. I was tempted to buy it without trying it on, as I was in a hurry. But I’m glad I took the time to go to the fitting room, as the fit was so off that I don’t think I would have ever worn it. Yet, I’m sure it will look great on someone with a different body type.
Does the item match your clothes and style?
Relatedly, when I decide what to buy when thrifting, one of the key things I consider is whether the item matches my style and other clothes in my closet. One of the perks of thrifting is without doubt that you can try out different styles without breaking the bank. However, if there’s a complete mismatch between the item you’re considering and your closet, you’ll find it difficult to combine it with your other clothes. Hence, you might not wear the item as much as you had thought you would.
A few months ago, I found the cutest Anthropologie dress in a thrift store. The dress fits great, and it was new with tags. I absolutely adored it and had to get it, although it’s very different from the clothes I normally wear. Generally, I go for neutral colors and styles, and this dress was wild and colorful. I had a vacation coming up, and I imagined myself wearing the dress every day. In reality, I tried it on on five different days, and always changed into another dress that I felt more comfortable in. I didn’t wear the dress once. Moral of the story? Go for pieces that you know you will actually wear.
Is the item in good condition?
I nowadays only buy items that are in excellent condition. In fact, the condition is one of the key criteria that determine what to buy when thrifting. Even if you find the cutest designer item, if it’s in bad condition, you’re unlikely to wear it.
Thus, I inspect everything I buy very carefully to determine the condition. First, I check whether the fabric is still good, i.e., there’s no pilling. Here, going for natural fabrics over synthetic ones is helpful, as I explained in a previous post. Natural materials are likely to last longer, and they don’t pill as easily as synthetic fabrics.
Secondly, I check everything very carefully for holes and other flaws. It’s obviously possible to mend small holes. That said, I very rarely buy anything damaged these days: I know myself and, unless it’s an item that I really, REALLY want, I won’t repair it and it will lay damaged in my closet for months. If the thrift store uses sensor tags, make sure that they don’t leave holes when removed. It hurt so bad when I found an amazing pair of Giuseppe Zanotti patent leather pumps, and the thrift store had murdered them by piercing one shoe with a sensor tag (why on earth do they do this??). In this case, I ended up buying them despite the flaw, though, because of the high retail price and the fact that the hole was not too visible.
In addition to holes, I check the possible zippers and other fastenings, as those are often the first things to break. It’s also very important to go over the item to see if there are any stains. Again, some stains can be removed rather easily, and I may still occasionally buy a stained item if I know that I can fix it. Yet, I’ve also learned to identify stubborn stains that are difficult to remove, and I leave those items behind without exception.
Again, trying the item on helps you to spot stains, holes, and broken fastenings.
Is the price competitive (and can you afford it)?
Finally, when I decide what to buy when thrifting, I always consider whether the item I’m interested in is priced right. This applies particularly to those items that thrift stores mark up. I check for instance how much the item is selling for on eBay. This gives me an idea of whether the item is a good buy, or whether I could get it for less somewhere else. The other day I found a pair of Madewell Frances loafers that I very much liked at Traid Kilburn. However, they were priced at £39.99. This was more than I was willing to pay for Madewell shoes (although Madewell still sells them online for $148). Thus, I left them. (I went back when they had their sale, though, and snatched them for £5.)
Also, I always consider my financial situation before I buy stuff. I used to thrift using my credit card (not a good idea), and the “small” amounts I paid for thrifted clothes quickly added up. One way to make sure that you don’t overspend is to bring cash when you go thrifting. This way, you can keep track of your spending. This also means that you really have to decide what to buy when thrifting, and what to leave behind. Thus, you end up being more selective and only buy stuff that is worth your money.
That said, if you come across a hard-to-find item and you really want it, go for it! The chances are that you won’t find it again.